Monday, July 19, 2010

Stereo Cameras

There seems to be a serious lack of information on stereo cameras on the internet. There is a lot of technical information available, but little discussion about the pros and cons each and how most cameras have held up over time.

Here are some sites that are out there already:

Stereoscopy.com has a lot of technical information, but no opinions or discussion about pros and cons.
Photo-3d.com has pictures but no reviews.
This site discusses different types of stereo photography. I am focused on a twin lens camera.
This site has a few reviews, though the picture links are broken.
The Rise of the Stereo Realist - is in the mold of the type of site I was looking for.

Here is what I've been able to learn:
  1. Kodak Stereo - Most have shutter problems - the speeds stick and even when working the two shutters can fire at different speeds, producing
  2. Realist 3.5 - This I've actually held. Seems ergonomically weird. The viewfinder is on the bottom, the focus dial is on the side and the shutter release is on the top. The Realist 2.8 was essentially the same camera with better lenses.
  3. Realist 45 (or Iloca Stereo Rapid) - Supposedly easy to use but no rangefinder. Bottom viewfinder.
  4. Revere 33 - Has a bubble level in the viewfinder, but the viewfinder is apparently small and the rangefinder is seperate. Supposedly the hotshoe is "not standard." I've seen it described both as delicate and built like a tank. Perhaps the external is solid, but the internals are delicate?
  5. Wollensak 10 - A upmarket Revere 33 with top quality lenses.
  6. Stereo Graphic - Two shutter speeds and fixed focus.
  7. TDC Colorist II - Normal hotshoe and integrated rangefinder, but no bubble level. Aperture grease can supposedly get gunked up. The Colorist I has no rangefinder.
  8. Wirgin Stereo (Edixa IA) - No rangefinder and cold shoe. Issues with light leaks have been mentioned.

Based on what I've seen, I've narrowed it down to the Revere 33 or the Colorist II. Both have 35/3.5, 3 element Cooke-triplet lenses:  Revere's Wollensack Amaton and the Colorist's Rodenstock Trinar lenses. I'm not sure if one is better than the other. Both were good brands.


3 comments:

  1. The Wollensak Stereo 10 and Realist 2.8 have tessar quads. The rest in your group have cooke triplets.
    The best built are the Realist, Realist 45, Revere and the Wollensak.
    I have used and abused a Realist 45 for over 20 years. It has held up better than anything else. I recently had it rebuilt and it is still going strong. You can see picture from it at 3D-Photography.com
    The absolute sharpest lenses I have are in my Wollensak Stereo 10. They are sharp wide open.
    They all have non-standard hot-shoes. You need an adapter to use a flash with any of them.
    Today when I use them I use either Provia 400, or Rollei IR at 200 and processed by DR5.com. Although I have recently been burning Kodachrome 25 in them. In general stereo photos don't look good with shallow depth of field, so faster film and stopped sown lenses usually (but not always) give better results.
    I also have a FED stereo which uses the 7-perf format (as oppsed to the 5-perf Realsit and 8-perf standard). It has surprisingly good tessar design lenses considering the shoddy Russian manufacturing.
    I also have two TDCs including a Colorist II. It like all of the cameras that age need a CLA because the 60 year old lubrication has turned to glue. Any camera you get of this vintage will need work if it has not already been done.

    Ranked in terms of subjective lens quality
    Wollensak Stereo 10
    Realsit 2.8
    Revere 33
    Realist, Realist 45, TDC Colorist, FED Stereo
    Kodak Stereo

    If you are looking for your 1st one your best bet is a Revere 33, Realist, or Realist 45.
    I would avoid the TDCs unless they are in perfect working order.
    The best place to have them CLAed I have found is walterscamerarepairs.com

    I would avoid the new Fuji digital stereo cameras. The lenses never seem to focuos together and the reults are what you would expect from two badly alligned cheap point-and-shoots.

    The stero cameras I use now are the Wollensak Stereo 10, Realist 45, Fed Stereo, Fuji W1 (a piece of crap I reggret buying), and a pair of Olympues E-410 SLRs iwth a circuit I built to trigger them simultaneously.

    Dual E-410 pictures are here: http://3d-photography.com/2010.08.02/

    I have a TDC II with stuck shutters you can have if you pay shipping.

    Chris
    3d-photography.com

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    Replies
    1. is the offer for the colorist still open or has it been claimed?

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  2. Hey thanks for the comment and the additional info. I ended up getting a TDC Colorist II.

    I liked the Wollensak 10, but they are expensive!

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